WG K4600 tube swap

[d***@gmail.com]

I have a WG K4600 series monitor (not sure how to tell just which model
it is/was within the 4600 series) but its CRT had bad pacman burn-in.
So I picked up an old (late 80s) 19" TV from a yard sale for cheap and
extracted the CRT from it. Luckily the 4600 neck board fits the CRT
end perfectly.

My dilemma now is: to use the yoke on the TV's CRT, or swap the one
from the old tube onto the new tube. The old yoke has coil resistances
of 9.0ohms and 3.2ohms; the new yoke has resistances of 10.9ohms and
3.0ohms. Are these likely close enough to work OK? I'm thinking I'd
prefer not to swap the yoke unless I have to... so I don't have to
fight with convergence and alignment.

Oh, FWIW the donor CRT is a Matsushita 510ABYB22.

Thanks,
Darren Finck

[Pat Danis]

I think that is pretty darn close. Go for it. I've used tubes that
were further off than that.

FWIW, most of the yard sale TVs I find are low resistance and perfect
for 4600s. Now if only 4600s weren't such a pain to fix.

Pat D.

Post by d***@gmail.com
I have a WG K4600 series monitor (not sure how to tell just which model
it is/was within the 4600 series) but its CRT had bad pacman burn-in.
So I picked up an old (late 80s) 19" TV from a yard sale for cheap and
extracted the CRT from it. Luckily the 4600 neck board fits the CRT
end perfectly.
My dilemma now is: to use the yoke on the TV's CRT, or swap the one
from the old tube onto the new tube. The old yoke has coil resistances
of 9.0ohms and 3.2ohms; the new yoke has resistances of 10.9ohms and
3.0ohms. Are these likely close enough to work OK? I'm thinking I'd
prefer not to swap the yoke unless I have to... so I don't have to
fight with convergence and alignment.
Oh, FWIW the donor CRT is a Matsushita 510ABYB22.
Thanks,
Darren Finck

[Kirk S.]

Check the pinouts of the tube. I've had ones that fit where the pins were
different.

Kirk S.

Post by Pat Danis
I think that is pretty darn close. Go for it. I've used tubes that
were further off than that.
FWIW, most of the yard sale TVs I find are low resistance and perfect
for 4600s. Now if only 4600s weren't such a pain to fix.
Pat D.

Post by d***@gmail.com
I have a WG K4600 series monitor (not sure how to tell just which model
it is/was within the 4600 series) but its CRT had bad pacman burn-in.
So I picked up an old (late 80s) 19" TV from a yard sale for cheap and
extracted the CRT from it. Luckily the 4600 neck board fits the CRT
end perfectly.
My dilemma now is: to use the yoke on the TV's CRT, or swap the one
from the old tube onto the new tube. The old yoke has coil resistances
of 9.0ohms and 3.2ohms; the new yoke has resistances of 10.9ohms and
3.0ohms. Are these likely close enough to work OK? I'm thinking I'd
prefer not to swap the yoke unless I have to... so I don't have to
fight with convergence and alignment.
Oh, FWIW the donor CRT is a Matsushita 510ABYB22.
Thanks,
Darren Finck

[d***@gmail.com]

Pat: Thanks! Luckily mine works fine (had a great pic aside from the
burn on the tube); so I'm curious... what makes them "such a pain to
fix"??

Kirk: Thaniks for the pointer. Of course I have the schematic for the
4600 (well, "a" schematic for one of the 4600-series monitors, but it
appears to be difference in some respects to mine), but I don't have
the donor TV's schematic. How to determine the CRT pinout w/o the
schematic??

Darren

[someotherguy]

4600's aren't a pain to fix. They're a tiny bit more work than say a
G07 or a 4900 but they last FAR longer with zero attention. Just cap
it, re-solder the pins for the cards, replace the black level pot, and
roll. These monitors are known for working until the phosphor coating
is all but gone from the tube.

Every now and then you'll have minor problems on X/Y cards or the
input cards, not a big deal, fixes documented here on the newsgroup.
Still way more reliable than flyblack-blowing G07's or blurry 4900's
that you can't focus because that winding in the flyback is bad.

Many years ago, I used to bitch about 4600's until I got a clue; then
they became my favorite monitor. And trust me; I've worked on a LOT
of monitors. I'd tube swap a nice tube from another monitor onto a
4600 any day and never look back. 4600's rock!

Richard

Post by d***@gmail.com
Pat: Thanks! Luckily mine works fine (had a great pic aside from the
burn on the tube); so I'm curious... what makes them "such a pain to
fix"??

[Kelly Ray]

i agree....love 4600 once you get them down!

Post by someotherguy
4600's aren't a pain to fix. They're a tiny bit more work than say a
G07 or a 4900 but they last FAR longer with zero attention. Just cap
it, re-solder the pins for the cards, replace the black level pot, and
roll. These monitors are known for working until the phosphor coating
is all but gone from the tube.
Every now and then you'll have minor problems on X/Y cards or the
input cards, not a big deal, fixes documented here on the newsgroup.
Still way more reliable than flyblack-blowing G07's or blurry 4900's
that you can't focus because that winding in the flyback is bad.
Many years ago, I used to bitch about 4600's until I got a clue; then
they became my favorite monitor. And trust me; I've worked on a LOT
of monitors. I'd tube swap a nice tube from another monitor onto a
4600 any day and never look back. 4600's rock!
Richard

[Pat Danis]

Disassembling the Chassis from the frame. Removing the plastic chassis
guards so that you don't melt them with the soldering iron. Getting all
the daughterboards to stay seated without falling out of the main
chassis during reinstall. Busting the Horizontal width coil when
removing it from the frame. All the friggin wires that get in the way
of my soldering. Remounting the pot on one of the daughtercards.

I'm sure there are more things I dislike. I do like the picture on
those monitors though. If I need to, I'll do a capkit, its just that I
can do two G07s in the time it takes to do a 4600.


pat D.

Post by d***@gmail.com
Pat: Thanks! Luckily mine works fine (had a great pic aside from the
burn on the tube); so I'm curious... what makes them "such a pain to
fix"??
Kirk: Thaniks for the pointer. Of course I have the schematic for the
4600 (well, "a" schematic for one of the 4600-series monitors, but it
appears to be difference in some respects to mine), but I don't have
the donor TV's schematic. How to determine the CRT pinout w/o the
schematic??
Darren

[thrushguy]

I agree... the 4600 was probably a great monitor when it was brand new and
all you needed to do was swap a card. It's just very time consuming to cap
the whole monitor. G07s and 4900s are great, no fuss, no muss..

Scott

Post by Pat Danis
Disassembling the Chassis from the frame. Removing the plastic chassis
guards so that you don't melt them with the soldering iron. Getting all
the daughterboards to stay seated without falling out of the main chassis
during reinstall. Busting the Horizontal width coil when removing it from
the frame. All the friggin wires that get in the way of my soldering.
Remounting the pot on one of the daughtercards.
I'm sure there are more things I dislike. I do like the picture on those
monitors though. If I need to, I'll do a capkit, its just that I can do
two G07s in the time it takes to do a 4600.
pat D.

Post by d***@gmail.com
Pat: Thanks! Luckily mine works fine (had a great pic aside from the
burn on the tube); so I'm curious... what makes them "such a pain to
fix"??
Kirk: Thaniks for the pointer. Of course I have the schematic for the
4600 (well, "a" schematic for one of the 4600-series monitors, but it
appears to be difference in some respects to mine), but I don't have
the donor TV's schematic. How to determine the CRT pinout w/o the
schematic??
Darren

[d***@gmail.com]

OK... I was starting to re-assemble everything... and realized that I'm
not sure where the OEM wire from the aquadag connected...

The donor CRT had a single-pin connector going to a pin in the middle
of the TV chassis. I can't seem to remember from what I disconnected
the dag from the old CRT... (or maybe it wasn't connected...) It
should just be connected to the chassis ground, right? but where,
exactly, is the correct (original) connection point?

Thanks again,
Darren

[Kelly Ray]

i believe there's a ground pin on the neckboard somewhere IIRC.........

Post by d***@gmail.com
OK... I was starting to re-assemble everything... and realized that I'm
not sure where the OEM wire from the aquadag connected...
The donor CRT had a single-pin connector going to a pin in the middle
of the TV chassis. I can't seem to remember from what I disconnected
the dag from the old CRT... (or maybe it wasn't connected...) It
should just be connected to the chassis ground, right? but where,
exactly, is the correct (original) connection point?
Thanks again,
Darren

[EastIowaAmusement]

Toss that junk Width coil in the garbage, and mount a GO7 one right in
the hole, cut the 2 extra support leads off and toss it in works like a
charm.

[Pat Danis]

Nowwwwwwwwwwww you tell me. Thanks, I'll give it a try. My last one
has a soda straw for a support on one end.

Pat D.

Post by EastIowaAmusement
Toss that junk Width coil in the garbage, and mount a GO7 one right in
the hole, cut the 2 extra support leads off and toss it in works like a
charm.

[Ken Layton]

The B&K Rejuvenator guide shows these tubes using the same socket
pinout so they should be perfectly fine to swap. Yes it sounds like
your yoke readings are also close enough so you won't need to swap
yokes.

[d***@gmail.com]

Ken: Thank you! I didn't know such a guide existed... so I went
Googling and found it online:

http://www.bkprecision.com/www/np_pdf.asp?m=497-022-0-599

According to the WG46xx schematics
(http://www.mikesarcade.com/arcade/monitors.html) the OEM CRT was a
19VJTP22... looking at the guide, it shows that adapter ("CR/CA") #23
is required. Next, finding the donor CRT (510ABYB22) in the chart, is
shows the same #23 adapter required... cool.

Darren