Arcade Projection Screens (Sega 50" Rear Projection, Toshiba)

[Josh McCormick]

So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?

Here are what the manuals call the part numbers of the TVs...

PTV 50 M 24K P503SGH
PROJECTION DSPL T 50TYPE 31K

Or should I go about trying to find a good consumer match and go from
there? The list of candidates I have are Toshiba 50H12 / 50H13 / 50A62 /
50H72 [unlikely] / 50H82 / 50HDX82 [unlikely].

Would a TV repair shop be unlikely to attempt any work on an arcade
project monitor?

[paladin-ng]

Post by Josh McCormick
So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?

you would have to replace the actual CRT tube (assuming it's a CRT
based projection... but then again I don't know of any other types of
projections that are susecptible to burn in. (LCD based are not), DLPs
are not and I don't think they have plasma based projections.

-brian

[Vaxx]

lcds will burn in, just takes longer.

And yes, you need to replace the tube/lcd to git rid of burn in. Or you
could try rotating it 180' and flipping the yoke if it's a tube type. Move
the burn elsewhere. Might help

Post by paladin-ng

Post by Josh McCormick
So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?

you would have to replace the actual CRT tube (assuming it's a CRT
based projection... but then again I don't know of any other types of
projections that are susecptible to burn in. (LCD based are not), DLPs
are not and I don't think they have plasma based projections.
-brian

[g***@gmail.com]

Post by Josh McCormick
So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?
Here are what the manuals call the part numbers of the TVs...
PTV 50 M 24K P503SGH
PROJECTION DSPL T 50TYPE 31K
Or should I go about trying to find a good consumer match and go from
there? The list of candidates I have are Toshiba 50H12 / 50H13 / 50A62 /
50H72 [unlikely] / 50H82 / 50HDX82 [unlikely].
Would a TV repair shop be unlikely to attempt any work on an arcade
project monitor?

You can actually fix burn in yourself if you get a substance called
Tactaranin.It's a powder type substance that you can spray on the
inside of a CRT from the inside after you remove the yoke on the
back.You will need a speacial tool you can get in any TV repair
shop.If i remeber corectly it's call a CRT yoke defauber or defruabler
removal tool but make sure it's for the model you have because they
make 50 different one's that are sized acording to one of the letters
or numbers in the model number.You will need a air paint gun too.If
you ask at the TV repair place that you buy the tool from im sure he
will give you the information you would need to apply the powder.You
will also need an extension for the spray gun. You will save a ton of
money by doing it yourself.I remember it costing around 8 or 9 dollars
an inch measured diagonaly if you let them do it.Good luck and please
post on how you make out because im sure this will save people lots of
cash.Just be careful when you apply this stuff.It's realy messy.

[pinballer]

I would really like to know how this one works. How the hell do you spray
anything on the inside of a sealed tube? If a tube has burnin then its done
and thats it. As for the OP's question. You probably have 3 color tubes RGB
and the burnin will be on all 3. So short of changing them your stuck with
the burnin. At the cost to replace them your better off just buying someones
old big screen tv and use it for the monitor. Thats all your monitor is
anyway is a television. I use to have a 52" mitsubishi that I remove from an
Alpine Racer that I used for my main TV for about 3years. It was good ut on
a really bright picture you could just make out the words "insert coins" in
the center of the screen.

Later

Post by Josh McCormick
So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?
Here are what the manuals call the part numbers of the TVs...
PTV 50 M 24K P503SGH
PROJECTION DSPL T 50TYPE 31K
Or should I go about trying to find a good consumer match and go from
there? The list of candidates I have are Toshiba 50H12 / 50H13 / 50A62 /
50H72 [unlikely] / 50H82 / 50HDX82 [unlikely].
Would a TV repair shop be unlikely to attempt any work on an arcade
project monitor?

You can actually fix burn in yourself if you get a substance called
Tactaranin.It's a powder type substance that you can spray on the
inside of a CRT from the inside after you remove the yoke on the
back.You will need a speacial tool you can get in any TV repair
shop.If i remeber corectly it's call a CRT yoke defauber or defruabler
removal tool but make sure it's for the model you have because they
make 50 different one's that are sized acording to one of the letters
or numbers in the model number.You will need a air paint gun too.If
you ask at the TV repair place that you buy the tool from im sure he
will give you the information you would need to apply the powder.You
will also need an extension for the spray gun. You will save a ton of
money by doing it yourself.I remember it costing around 8 or 9 dollars
an inch measured diagonaly if you let them do it.Good luck and please
post on how you make out because im sure this will save people lots of
cash.Just be careful when you apply this stuff.It's realy messy.

[Josh McCormick]

Post by pinballer
At the cost to replace them your better off just buying someones
old big screen tv and use it for the monitor. Thats all your monitor is
anyway is a television.

Those are close to my thoughts on it. Worst case, a scroll-bar from CNN
can't be half as bad as a gigantic STAR WARS TRILOGY logo that is burnt
into the middle of the screen. Seriously, though, the burn-in isn't that
bad, but I'd pay money to get rid of it.

I clued into some information below that I should have seen earlier. The
model numbers. One projection TV is "24K" (standard arcade resolution)
and the other projection TV is "31K", which is EGA resolution.

"50TYPE" seems to be a reference to all of Toshiba's 50" projection TVs
that start with a model number of 50. Perhaps the difference in these is
just in all the good consumer electronics features that surround the
tube. I've seen a P503SGH and P503SGA model numbers. I haven't made much
progress there other than the 50 referring to that 50" model type, and
the SG likely being 'SEGA'.

What I'm wondering is if I should think about snatching up an old
Toshiba projection TV, and then testing it out against a white screen.
If it is pretty even, then transplant the CRTs out of it, and put it
into an arcade projection TV.

Post by pinballer

Post by Josh McCormick
So, please forgive my ignorance of rear projection TVs, but my question
is: Is it outrageous to try to get rid of burn-in with replacing some parts?
Here are what the manuals call the part numbers of the TVs...
PTV 50 M 24K P503SGH
PROJECTION DSPL T 50TYPE 31K
Or should I go about trying to find a good consumer match and go from
there? The list of candidates I have are Toshiba 50H12 / 50H13 / 50A62 /
50H72 [unlikely] / 50H82 / 50HDX82 [unlikely].

[w***@aol.com]

It seems to me that you can do this, and that even if the tube is not
exactly the same number, it can often work OK. I think the basic tube
specs need to remain mostly the same. I'm no expert on this, but I
think it can be a cheap way to get a 50" arcade monitor looking nice
again. The average CRT RPTV gun probably has WAY less hours, plus no
burn, and the prices are really cheap.
Good luck, Mark M.

[Gary V]

garabaldy=MARK Dorfman....Lame.

[Gary V]

If you REALLY like the game just retro fit a 42 or 50" LCD. East Coast
Amusements does this to projector and tube games. Man you gotta see
Arctic Thunder on a LCD!

[Josh McCormick]

Post by Gary V
If you REALLY like the game just retro fit a 42 or 50" LCD. East Coast
Amusements does this to projector and tube games. Man you gotta see
Arctic Thunder on a LCD!

It sounds very nice and a long term solution! And I see that the Vizio
model that they are likely using (VW42L) has a very wide viewing angle
(like the Toshiba projector) and a fast response rate (8ms). My most
immediate concern would be... wouldn't you lose a lot of real estate on
the screen?

I'm thinking that most 42" LCDs be in a 16:9 aspect ratio. In those
conversions, do they end up throwing away some vertical space (for lack
of a screen) and horizontal space (for the black space on the sides of a
4:3 image on at 16:9 screen)?

Projection screen area is ~40"x~30". I'm guessing that the LCD screen
area would be ~40"x~23" if you're willing to horizontally stretch the
image. Keeping the original aspect ratio would be a disappointing
~30"x~23" of actual video area.

I'm wondering how I'd think another game would look with a horizontal
stretch? Could I live with an oval Death Star?

[Josh McCormick]

Post by pinballer
At the cost to replace them your better off just buying someones
old big screen tv and use it for the monitor. Thats all your monitor is
anyway is a television. I use to have a 52" mitsubishi that I remove from an
Alpine Racer that I used for my main TV for about 3years. It was good ut on
a really bright picture you could just make out the words "insert coins" in
the center of the screen.

It would be great for a generic JAMMA cabinet! In the case of a
dedicated machine, aside from losing the side art and the marquee,
there's one big problem.

All the power supply, game boards, and support boards are stored in the
monitor housing. Fitting an old game into a consumer TV is a lot more
difficult than fixing up the game's screen. (But probably still cheaper,
eh?)

[Josh McCormick]

Post by g***@gmail.com
You can actually fix burn in yourself if you get a substance called
Tactaranin.It's a powder type substance that you can spray on the
inside of a CRT from the inside after you remove the yoke on the
back.

Assuming you're not just having some fun with me, I would think that
attempting to spray some a new layer or something (conductive coating?
phosphor?) through A CRT's vacuum nipple would be a recipe for disaster,
and certainly, far beyond my level of confidence/competence.

You're playing with me, right?